Monday, February 25, 2008

Glaetzer "Godolphin" (70% Shiraz, 30% Cabernet) Barossa Valley 2004

Purple/red.

Dense nose - wax, chocolate frosting - with meat and black fruit underneath. Unusually filled in/packed. No sign of heat.

Completely packed in the mouth, with a building sense of sweetness. Absolutely seamless, with structural acid/tannin synergy coating the front teeth clandestinely. Building from there.

Now this works extremely well. Should drink well for many years. Nothing jarring or artificial here.

Day 3 - Cocoa powder/Andes mint/melted wax on the nose. Slightly less seamless, a bit of alcohol in the finish. But this is splitting hairs. Nicely put together. Will it develop any real complexity?

Day 9 - Vivid Andes Mint aromatics. Exactly like the retronasal impression you get when chewing one of these puppies. Cocoa powder and a hint of meat too. Extremely unusual, dry powdered cocoa impression in the mouth also. It works for me, but I wonder what winemaking techniques account for this?

$55

Hewitson, Mourvedre "Old Garden" Barossa Valley 2002

Deep red.

Toasted, slightly roasted nose. Hint of chocolate and something burnt - slightly oxidized?

Round and sweet in the mouth, burnt character repeating.

I think this bottle may be whacked.

Hegarty Chamans, No. 1 (Syrah/Carignan/Mourvedre), Minervois 2003

Purple/red.

Wild, idiosyncratic aromas - chocolate, earth, game, fresh spearmint. I think the south of France often qualifies as a parallel wine universe.

Rich and quite deep in the mouth, but not sweet. In fact, this has monster depth of flavor, with crazy animal/spearmint action showing up in the mouth also. Tannin is well-refined and just slightly chewy.

Need a wake-up call? Too much easy-going, predictable crap from the New World? Try this.

Day 3 - Feral nose now shows exotic fruit (perfectly ripe mango?), peppermint ... Hilarious. WTF? Wild ride, might as well enjoy it. Retains its suave, plush character in the mouth. Acid-driven structure coats the sides of the mouth with serious chew.

Day 9 - No shit. Nose is a bit flatter, but retains all the essentials from Day 1. Spearmint quality keeps it alive. Fat and full in the mouth, no sign of oxidation. Raised in concrete or stainless? One of the most interesting bottles I can remember.

$20

Alto de la Hoya, Monastrell, Jumilla 2006

Opaque purple/red.

Low-toned nose of dried fig/date, melted chocolate and spices. Sumptuous, almost port-like

Round, sweet palate-impression - meat/earth/black fruit confection. Slightly flat in the finish, with long finishing flavor of date/fig. Lots of spice action too.


Synthetic cork, which probably contributes to the oxidative character of the wine. Although this is an interesting point. These types of Monastrell (inexpensive, large volume, quality American importers) seem to be built for consumption 2-3 years from vintage date. Monastrell is highly resistant to oxidation. Low sulfur/synthetic cork for immediate appeal?

Hard to argue - this is very tasty and deep. And it beats the crap out of generic stuff from the US at this $$.

$12

Curran, Grenache Blanc, Santa Ynez Valley 2005

Platinum.

Lightly baked apple, hints of almond paste and pear on the nose. Smells fleshy.

Then flavors of white grape jelly, pear and driving mineral/acid structure. Sweet/tart tug of war throughout. Ultimately quite refreshing, with yellow citrus zest flavors kicking in forcefully.

This is all over the place - in a good sense. Like reading Nietzsche, can't figure out what's coming next.

Day 3 - As might be expected, fleshier pear action on the nose and in the mouth. Major acid/mineral cut balances fruit sweetness. Long and chewy.

Refreshing, interesting, flavorful. All kinds of foodie options.


$26

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Casa Silva, Petit Verdot "Gran Reserva", Chile 2005

Deep purple.

Blueberry/cream cheese, and earth nose reminds me, strangely, of Copain's Madder Lake Syrah. There's a lurking salami/citrus note too.

Plush and mouth-filling, with acid-driven structure ultimately constricting the mouth. Very nice mid-palate flesh, particularly for PV. Good length. Not complex, yet, but well-worth a few years in the bottle.

Interesting stuff, does not seem overly manipulated, other than a decent bit of fining, I'd guess. Or is it filtration?

Works for me.

$30

Domane Wachau "Terrassen" Gruner Veltliner, Federspiel 2006

Straw.

Vibrant fruit-filled nose. Ripe, fleshy lemon with a hint of zest. Just the barest hint of pepper/lentil.
Can't remember ever having a federspiel so fruit-based.

Round and fairly plush (there has to be decent RS here). Great citrus zest acidity keeps it vibrant and chewy in the mouth. Not complex, but, man, this is delicious action. Can't wait for a hot day in the vineyard.

I believe Feders are 12.5% alcohol or lower.


$20 screwcap

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Bodegas Estefania, Pagos de Posada, Bierzo 2001

Red/purple.

Clay/earth, spicy date and hints of red fruit underneath. Adds a savory note with air.

Very plush and filled-in. Packed with very little sense of weight. This obviously has seen far less new oak than the Tares bottling. Lighter with expressive red raspberry fruit. I think both wines will be better tomorrow.

Day 3 - Fuller, more integrated, earthy/savory nose. Long, round and relatively weightless in the mouth. You can understand why Bierzo (sometimes) reminds people of Burgundy. This really is delicious stuff.

$30

Dominio de Tares "Exaltos Cepas Viejas" Bierzo 2003

Purple/red.

Smoky, oaky, clay/earth nose. Fig/date and raspberry underneath. Dense.

Round with a bit of textural sweetness. Actually becomes sweeter through the mid-palate, a bit of heat too. Earth and light chew in the long finish. Deep and concentrated, just lacks palate complexity, which may well come with more years in the bottle.

Day 3 - Coconut, pepper/citrus on the nose. Savory, earth/roasted meat/oak spice too. Oak influence very well-integrated now. Quite deep in the mouth, with a sweetness of texture that few will liken to Burgundy. Acidity kicks in ever more forcefully on the finish, which is all citrus/pepper.

Completely different expressions of Bierzo.

100% Mencia

$30

Monday, February 18, 2008

Jamet, Cote Rotie 1998

Deep red.

Much denser nose, black fruit makes an appearance, as does smoked ham and cracked black pepper. The wilted greens aspect of the 2000 is here, too, but tucked underneath. Loaded, but not fully expressing yet.

Round, with a bit of textural sweetness. Again, much more concentrated than the 2000, but not yet "giving it up". Chewy acid/tannin synergy in the finish. Smoked meat flavor rides through nicely.

Day 3 - Now fully expressing the smoked ham, earth, wilted spinach thing. There's even an ultra-ripe tomato/ketchup nuance. Totally killer aromatic action. More structured in the mouth now, with wilted greens and smoked ham dominating. But also showing slight oxidation.

$50 on release

Jamet, Cote Rotie 2000

Dullish red.

Expressive aromas of bacon fat/breakfast sausage/smoked ham, earth, grilled asparagus/wilted spinach. Smells killer. No fruit in sight.

Round, suave, middle-weight in the mouth. Great, smoky herb/meat flavor just flows through everything. Acid constriction is the mild structural force here. Long.

Much better than I expected from a 2000.

Day 3 - Funny, this is more bound up on the nose. Iron and smoke. Round and plush in the mouth. Smoky herb action flows through it all. No fat in the mid-palate or finish. I'd give this only a few more years. Drink by 2011.


$50 on release.

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Montes Alpha, Syrah, Colchagua Valley 2005

Purple.

Tar, licorice, toasty oak and musky black fruit nose. Reminds me of a young Havens Syrah.

Round, plush entry - tar, menthol and oak toast flavors with a citrus zest undertone. Fairly strong acid-impression keeps everything in check, but does not kill mid-palate flavor. Mild, chewy finish.

Nice action. This would be interesting in a blind tasting of northern Rhone wines. Cheap.

Day 5 - Still reminds me of a Havens Syrah, very similar to day 1. In fact, there is almost no difference. For the money, this is a very smart buy in structured/Euro-similar Syrah.

$17

Chateau de Saint Cosme, Gigondas 2003

Deep red.

Black cherry jam/black tea/garrigue/earth aromatics.

Plush entry is immediately buffered by grainy (stem?) tannin. Tight, linear impression from the mid-palate on. Needs a few years in the cellar. More garrigue and iron flavors than fruit at this point.

Opened last night at Canela, with an incredible pork shoulder dish. Best thing I've eaten in years.

Day 4 - Huge aromatic expression now - red fruit jam, garrigue, earth. Fat and expansive in the mouth, still framed by acid-driven stem tannin. Late note of cinnamon.


$28

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Saxum "Rocket Block" James Berry Vyd. Paso Robles 2003

Red/purple.

Shoe-polish, A-1 steak sauce, earth and little else at this point. Reminds me of Priorat.

Huge, low-toned sweetness in the mouth. But refined as well, with strong acidity providing a nice counterweight. Structure coats the front teeth with "mineral" chew, but (relatively simple) flavor sweetness sails on. Two tracks.

16.6% alcohol - where is this going? Got me.

Day 4 - Nose now includes a creamy, confectionary red and black fruit character. Absolutely huge, creamy, sweet palate impression that hits an alcohol speed bump in the mid-palate and doesn't recover.

It would be very interesting to taste this blind against '03 luxury Chateauneufs (Deux Freres, Centenaire, etc.) and Priorats (Erasmus, Mogador, Mas Doix).

50% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah

$70

Copain "Les Copains" James Berry Vyd. Paso Robles 2005

Red/purple.

Crushed red and blue fruit nose, slight earth.

Deep, sweet and plush. Suggestion of new oak not seen in the previous two vintages. Better depth in the mid-palate, but structure catches up on the finish. This seems as though it will benefit from bottle-age.

I think this vintage includes a decent bit of Syrah.

Day 4 - Very primary, crushed blueberry nose. I'd guess Syrah, blind. Round and sweet, texturally, with very good mid-palate flesh. Acid crimps the finish a bit. Fairly simple wine, but very tasty.

$25

Copain "Les Copains" James Berry Vyd. Paso Robles 2004

Slightly deeper red.

Deeper cherry aromatics, but also more pent up. A bit of a confectionary aspect.

Deep and sweet, with immediate acid/chew. Hot vintage, from what I hear. Seems loaded, in comparison to the 2003, but also dis-jointed. Will this mellow out and fully express?

Day 4 - Nose hasn't changed much. Reticent, but there seems to be a huge load of fruit waiting to burst out (so to speak).
Hasn't changed a bit in the mouth. This will be interesting to follow.

$25

Copain "Les Copains" James Berry Vyd. Paso Robles 2003

Red.

Cran-cherry and (clean) earth on the nose. Smells like Pinot.

Very suave and broad in the mouth, with very nice framing acidity. Again, this resembles Pinot. But the Grenache delivers tell-tale textural sweetness, and a distinct red raspberry note.

Very nice. Grenache and Mourvedre, I believe.

Day 4 - Cranberry jelly and earth aromas now. Even broader and more seamless in the mouth. Long, plush finish, slight acid intrusion.

$25

Monday, February 11, 2008

Copain "Madder Lake" Lake County Syrah 2006

Deep purple/red.

Blueberry/blackberry coulis, a slight stem note (?), earth and toasted oak on the nose.

Ripe, sweet blue/black fruit impression immediately buffered by strong acidity. Really plush in the mid-palate, with nice length. Acid (stem?) chew kicks in late to give a hard candy fruit feel.

Opened yesterday.

$25

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Kongsgaard Chardonnay Napa 2003

Light yellow.

Oak oil/petrol, truffle/sulfide, pear custard nose.

Round, sweet entry. Intensely flavored, but quite finely-structured, with a finishing pear custard/mineral standoff. Extremely long. I obviously missed badly on my first bottle several months ago or had an off bottle. Not as seamless as a Marcassin bottling usually is, but far more precise. Caramel and stones in the finish.

Day 3 - Similar nose, but more lemon oily now with a bit of almond extract. Custard undertone still there. Richer, but still pure in the mouth. Little phenolic/sulfide edge to the structure here - (seemingly) relies more on acidity and "mineral" character.


$75

Saturday, February 9, 2008

Ciacci Piccolomini, Brunello di Montalcino 1999

Red.

Cherry liqueur, fresh herbs, allspice, clove, cocoa and hazelnut nose. Killer aromatic display

Round, slightly sweet texture immediately stiffened by strong acidity. Taut, intense, middle-weight. Nice purity/delineation. No sense of weight, as bitter cherry, cocoa and hazelnut flavors linger. Late suggestion of iron.

Day 5 - Less defined, more sumptuous nose. Doing the umami-central thing. Very round, with a sense of building tension from the acidity. Again, as might be expected, less clarity in the mouth, more volume. Iron repeats in the finish.

Many years to go here.

$60

Thursday, February 7, 2008

Marcassin "Three Sisters" Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2003

Red.

Perfumed, savory nose, with bright red rasp/cherry fruit. Very nice oak component adds a milk chocolate/Frangelico undertone.

Round and sweet texturally, with jellied red fruit packed throughout the mid-palate. A "mineral" chew comes out in the very long finish.

This just showed up today, with a bad cork (hole through the middle of the cork). This was bottled in 2004, I would guess, and has leaked a small amount (5 ml) over that time. So this bottle should be more advanced than pristine examples.

This doesn't seem to have been too adversely affected. The nose just keeps changing. A major, suave, mouthful of Pinot, just a touch of heat (14.9% listed).

Day 3 - Expansive nose. Huge aromatic depth - umami central. This isn't delineated, really. Like looking at an ink blot - suddenly a clear image - then gone (ad infinitum). Heat is still an issue in the mouth, unfortunately, slightly abrasive. Huge mid-palate and very good length. Lightly tannic finish coats the front teeth.

$85

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Bastide Blanche, Bandol 2004

Purple/red.

Deep clay/earth, spicy fig and hazelnut. Nothing gamy here.

Round and slightly sweet, texturally. Grainy tannin is a bit coarse and has an immediate impact. Good depth and flavor follow-through. I'd buy more to go with (what else) Canela's cassoulet in 2010-2013.

A very good (clean) example of basic Bandol. Cheap.


$20

Monday, February 4, 2008

Walter Hansel "Cahill Lane Vyd" Pinot Noir RRV 2005

Light red.

Completely different aromatic impression here. Deep, suave, harmonious, lower-toned - savory meat, underbrush, brown spices, red cherry, earth .... People (myself included) like to yack about things "Burgundian". This is why we love Pinot.

Beautiful in the mouth too. Round, mouth-filling, weightless, with an unobtrusive acid core that frames it all. Long, delicious seamless, mildly tangy.

Not incredible in any specific category, but the whole just rocks.

Day 3 - Refined, yet utterly sensual ... I could go blind drinking this.

Day 4 - Funny - I wanted to try this with a Marcassin Pinot just to calibrate. This is a beautiful thing indeed, it just lacks the depth/concentration of the Marcassin 3 Sisters. On the other hand, this may be the key to its immediate sensuality.

Buy it : 707-525-3614. What a ridiculous value in beautiful Pinot.

$40

Cono Sur "20 Barrels" Pinot Noir, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2006

Deepish red.

Toasty oak reminds me of the Santa Rita "Triple C" tasted recently. Deep nose with meat and black cherry underneath.
Better integration with some aeration.

Sweet textural impression, with strongish acidity clamping down early. Confectionary cherry flavor rides through fairly well. This is dis-jointed, for no obvious reason. Another wine that seems "constructed". But it's not bad, and will appeal to those looking for more intense/structured Pinot. Particularly at the price.

Day 3 - Much better aromatic integration - black cherry/raspberry, toasted oak and, yet again, a sumptuous meat character. Huge, slightly sweet, fruit depth on the nose. Ditto in the mouth, but acid-driven structure reins everything in immediately. I still get the sense that this has been needlessly acidulated. Nevertheless, it is packed and full of flavor.

Day 7 - This is hideous. Wouldn't comment, but the drippings of the Panther and Rex Hill bottles are still killer. Stupid, formulaic crap here.

$25

Rex Hill "Reserve" Pinot Noir Oregon 2004

Pale red.

Wonderful stem-inclusion aromas of garrigue, cinnamon and something floral. Savory meat and sauteed onion too.

Round and completely mouth-filling, but not sweet, as stem-derived, chewy, structure revs up on the mid-palate. But, like the Panther Creek, flavors ride through it all. Long finish here too, but stem spice/herbs predominate. Give this another 3-4 years also.

Very interesting contrast in structured Oregon Pinot. Panther seemingly more extracted (sans stems) and oak-influenced, this lighter, but stem-powered.

Day 3 - Open, expansive nose hasn't changed much. Beautiful. Showing some sweetness in the mouth now. Stem chew hits much later and more lightly. More tang on the finish, very long.

Day 5 - Cinnamon/garrigue/savory meat aromatic cadence now. Red raspberry emerges, finally. Even-keeled throughout. Superlative winemaking here. Stunningly good.

Buy it : 1-800-Rex-Hill

Gift - $45?

Panther Creek, Shea Vyd, Pinot Noir 2004

Red.

Suave oak smoke/toasted nut, red cherry and a hint of underbrush on the nose.

Round, seamless with a textural sweetness. Very good red cherry fruit driving through the mid-palate. Acidity kicks in a bit on the finish to keep things fresh. There's a saline nuance too. Very long and tangy. Interesting stuff. Needs 3-4 years.

Day 3 - More savory, integrated nose now. Cherry fruit is packed, with fresh oregano making an appearance in the mouth. Saline action still there. Maybe there is a touch of stem influence here? Structure is significant for New World Pinot - I'm guessing extended maceration and no stems.

Very cool action.

Day 5 - Definitely not influenced by stems. Saline character front and center on the nose, with a meaty/black cherry jam underpinning. Plush, saline and packed in the mouth. Huge mid-palate fruit flesh, with moderate tannin finishing structure coating the front teeth
.
What a great study in Pinot styles.

Buy this too: panthercreekcellars.com

Gift $45?

Friday, February 1, 2008

Waterford Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Stellenbosch 2004

Deep red.

Lifted, fresh red pepper herbaceous note, blackcurrant underneath. Smoked sausage nuance too.

Round and slightly sweet in the mouth, expansive. Strong acidity intrudes a bit in the finish. A "mineral" and smoked sausage also. It would be interesting to know what cooperage is used here.

Interesting.

Day 4 - Everything integrated now. Toasted nut, herbs, blackcurrant - this smells like Bordeaux (w/o a slathering of toasty new oak). Middle-weight feel, tight in the mid-palate, but flavor sails through. Two tracks. Has years of good drinking ahead of it.

Killer deal - buy it.

$25

Corison Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2002

Deep red.

Damp earth, A1 steak sauce/grilled meat, and a confectionary suggestion of dried fig/date.

Round, suave, middle-weight impression. Acidity is fairly strong, but not crazy. Mid-palate flesh fends off solid structural spine running start to finish. Very nicely balanced, harmonious, satisfying wine.

Day 4 - This smells more like a Spanish Monastrell. But deep and rich nonetheless. Really round and packed, with a bit of a confectionary feel. Again - I'd never guess Cabernet here - but who cares. Packed, deep and long. And only 13.6% alcohol.


$45