Evolved red.
Vinturi - crazy, old-school, CdP nose - spicy ketchup, garrigue, oak spice (but there isn't any), wilted herbs, wood smoke ...
All of this in a lifted, seamless, killer package.
Huge impact in the mouth, just all over the place, with some serious chew as a tether to earth. Shows a bit of alcohol. But who cares. This delivers (some of) the goods now, even though it still needs time in the bottle. Stem chew on and on. You have to love this kind of CdP. Loaded, interesting, butt-naked.
$50 on release. Mostly Grenache.
Monday, August 31, 2009
Grand Veneur, Chateauneuf du Pape "Les Origines" 2001
Red/purple.
Vinturi - deep, aromatic nose shows oak spice influence, but also deep black fruit and clay/earth.
Deep and loaded in the mouth, with a plush fruit/earth mid-palate that reminds me of Clos St. Jean (basic). This works from start to finish, with slightly aggressive acid/tannin synergy showing late. This doesn't taste like an 8 year old bottle of CdP. Ultimately not wildly complex, but there are more than a few folks that will love the overall impression.
$25 on release, I think. 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah.
Vinturi - deep, aromatic nose shows oak spice influence, but also deep black fruit and clay/earth.
Deep and loaded in the mouth, with a plush fruit/earth mid-palate that reminds me of Clos St. Jean (basic). This works from start to finish, with slightly aggressive acid/tannin synergy showing late. This doesn't taste like an 8 year old bottle of CdP. Ultimately not wildly complex, but there are more than a few folks that will love the overall impression.
$25 on release, I think. 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah.
Saturday, August 29, 2009
Palacios "Petalos" 2006 (Bierzo, Spain)
Purple/red.
Vinturi - deep earth/spice/iodine/blackberry nose.
Intense middle-weight - earth/spice flavors. Shows a sour/green character in the mouth. Reminds me of Cote Rotie in that sense. Acid/tannin synergy coats the front teeth in chew. Densely packed/structured, but will it express? Saline feel on the finish.
$18
Vinturi - deep earth/spice/iodine/blackberry nose.
Intense middle-weight - earth/spice flavors. Shows a sour/green character in the mouth. Reminds me of Cote Rotie in that sense. Acid/tannin synergy coats the front teeth in chew. Densely packed/structured, but will it express? Saline feel on the finish.
$18
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Monte Bernardi "Sa'Etta" Colli della Toscana Centrale 1999
Deep, youthful, red.
Vinturi - reticent nose shows hints of savory meat/drippings, white pepper, red fruit coulis, hazelnut.
Intense middle-weight. Plush red fruit (cherry/cranberry) immediately tempered by strong acidity. This dynamic plays out all the way through the finish. Not wildly complex, but nuanced and pure. Invigorating. Pinot folks, particularly Burgundy freaks, will like this quite a bit.
Day 2 - even deeper, savory nose, with a solid core of red fruit. This reminds me of a Marcassin Pinot. Killer. Now showing this savory character in the mouth, too. Still has vibrant, acid-driven, red fruit liqueur/mineral flavor. For all the Sangiovese doubters out there.
$50 on release. Single vineyard, old-vine Sangiovese
Vinturi - reticent nose shows hints of savory meat/drippings, white pepper, red fruit coulis, hazelnut.
Intense middle-weight. Plush red fruit (cherry/cranberry) immediately tempered by strong acidity. This dynamic plays out all the way through the finish. Not wildly complex, but nuanced and pure. Invigorating. Pinot folks, particularly Burgundy freaks, will like this quite a bit.
Day 2 - even deeper, savory nose, with a solid core of red fruit. This reminds me of a Marcassin Pinot. Killer. Now showing this savory character in the mouth, too. Still has vibrant, acid-driven, red fruit liqueur/mineral flavor. For all the Sangiovese doubters out there.
$50 on release. Single vineyard, old-vine Sangiovese
Ciacci Piccolomini "Ateo" Rosso Toscano 1999
Deep red.
Vinturi - very attractive nose - suave smoky oak, baking spices, black fruit, charcoal/brick, red cherry.
Round and fairly dense, with an edge of red fruit/acidity moving in from the sides of the mouth. Tannin kicks in as well in the mid-palate. Nice fruit character and an iron/clay/earth nuance. Still constricted and chewy in the finish. I thought this might be nearing its end. Not at all.
$25 on release. Sangiovese and Cabernet, I believe.
Vinturi - very attractive nose - suave smoky oak, baking spices, black fruit, charcoal/brick, red cherry.
Round and fairly dense, with an edge of red fruit/acidity moving in from the sides of the mouth. Tannin kicks in as well in the mid-palate. Nice fruit character and an iron/clay/earth nuance. Still constricted and chewy in the finish. I thought this might be nearing its end. Not at all.
$25 on release. Sangiovese and Cabernet, I believe.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Domaine du Mas Blanc "La Coume" Rimage, Banyuls 2001
Deep red.
Vinturi - salt water taffy, balsa, Chambord, celery salt, prune/raisin aromas. An aromatic bonefest - integrated, self-contained (no heat).
Round, deep, sweet and plush - initially. Then significant acidity and moderate tannin shut down any overt sense of sweetness. Very much in the style of a great late harvest Zinfandel. Finishes "dry" with chew hitting the front teeth. "Do" this with cheese or on its own.
$30. 375ml. Purchased years ago. Incredibly saline then, ridiculously, un-enjoyably so. The '94 version sold me on the idea of fortification on the skins, and Banyuls in general.
Vinturi - salt water taffy, balsa, Chambord, celery salt, prune/raisin aromas. An aromatic bonefest - integrated, self-contained (no heat).
Round, deep, sweet and plush - initially. Then significant acidity and moderate tannin shut down any overt sense of sweetness. Very much in the style of a great late harvest Zinfandel. Finishes "dry" with chew hitting the front teeth. "Do" this with cheese or on its own.
$30. 375ml. Purchased years ago. Incredibly saline then, ridiculously, un-enjoyably so. The '94 version sold me on the idea of fortification on the skins, and Banyuls in general.
Chateau Pipeau, St. Emilion 2003
Dep red.
Vinturi - mouthwatering nose - smoky oak/grilled meat/drippings/mint/black raspberry sauce.
Intense in the mouth, with deep black fruit and Bordeaux herb flavors. Intensely structured as well - showing no fat or "give" of any kind. But flavors ride through all the constriction. Tannin is a bit aggressive and may never fully harmonize. Still, this is nicely concentrated and needs more time.
$40? Gift from Mr. Hamilton
Vinturi - mouthwatering nose - smoky oak/grilled meat/drippings/mint/black raspberry sauce.
Intense in the mouth, with deep black fruit and Bordeaux herb flavors. Intensely structured as well - showing no fat or "give" of any kind. But flavors ride through all the constriction. Tannin is a bit aggressive and may never fully harmonize. Still, this is nicely concentrated and needs more time.
$40? Gift from Mr. Hamilton
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Domaine du Caillou "Les Quartz" Chateauneuf du Pape 2000
Deep, youthful, red.
Vinturi - another great nose - deep cherry/raspberry jelly, suave oak/hazelnut. Hints of iron and garrigue. Seductive, pure.
Round, seamless, with Grenache-y "sweetness". Completely sexy with relatively strong acidity adding backbone. I suppose this is a perfect example of what others call "sugar/acid balance". Also a perfect example of CdP made by someone who loved Burgundy. The late JL Vacheron was one hell of a winemaker.
$60
Vinturi - another great nose - deep cherry/raspberry jelly, suave oak/hazelnut. Hints of iron and garrigue. Seductive, pure.
Round, seamless, with Grenache-y "sweetness". Completely sexy with relatively strong acidity adding backbone. I suppose this is a perfect example of what others call "sugar/acid balance". Also a perfect example of CdP made by someone who loved Burgundy. The late JL Vacheron was one hell of a winemaker.
$60
Marcassin, Marcassin Vyd, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2000
Dull red.
Great integrated nose - spicy red cherry, mint, charred meat, hazelnut/earth/cinnamon and even a hint of the sea.
Round, plush and vibrant. Still quite structured with an edge of acidity (VA enhanced) and cinnamon tannin. No problem sitting on this for several years. Not giving it up just yet/playing hard to get.
$125
Great integrated nose - spicy red cherry, mint, charred meat, hazelnut/earth/cinnamon and even a hint of the sea.
Round, plush and vibrant. Still quite structured with an edge of acidity (VA enhanced) and cinnamon tannin. No problem sitting on this for several years. Not giving it up just yet/playing hard to get.
$125
Sunday, August 16, 2009
Domaine de la Janasse "Chaupin" Chateuaneuf du Pape 2003
Deep red.
Vinturi - deep, plush nose. Plum/prune/fig/nut sauce/black raspberry coulis.
Round, intense and abrasive in the mouth, with alcohol peeking out in the mid-palate. This is loaded, huge, but I can't enjoy it. Like the CdP, this shows an edge of acidity that kills any pleasure.
Interesting, I expected to love this stuff. Best to sit on the '03s for several years?
Day 4 - There's a cooked/stewed tomato aspect to the nose that bugs me. This is still alcoholic and abrasive. Hopefully this is a whacked bottle, but there was no indication of heat damage.
$50
Vinturi - deep, plush nose. Plum/prune/fig/nut sauce/black raspberry coulis.
Round, intense and abrasive in the mouth, with alcohol peeking out in the mid-palate. This is loaded, huge, but I can't enjoy it. Like the CdP, this shows an edge of acidity that kills any pleasure.
Interesting, I expected to love this stuff. Best to sit on the '03s for several years?
Day 4 - There's a cooked/stewed tomato aspect to the nose that bugs me. This is still alcoholic and abrasive. Hopefully this is a whacked bottle, but there was no indication of heat damage.
$50
Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape 2003
Red, some evolution.
Vinturi - integrated, harmonious nose - cherry jam/garrigue/iron/savory meat/hazelnut/spices.
Then a bit dis-jointed in the mouth. Acid and alcohol out of whack, adding an abrasive edge. Nice depth and mid-palate flesh, but currently not up to the structural load. Needs time, maybe lots of it.
Day 4 - Nose is now incredible. Seamless, savory with everything from day 1. As might be expected, way better in the mouth too. Showing just a slight edge now, with full-on mid-palate flesh and cherry jam, spice and garrigue flavors. Acid/tannin synergy is still fairly strong on the finish. I don't think I'd touch this for at least 5-6 years, maybe 10-12.
$65
Vinturi - integrated, harmonious nose - cherry jam/garrigue/iron/savory meat/hazelnut/spices.
Then a bit dis-jointed in the mouth. Acid and alcohol out of whack, adding an abrasive edge. Nice depth and mid-palate flesh, but currently not up to the structural load. Needs time, maybe lots of it.
Day 4 - Nose is now incredible. Seamless, savory with everything from day 1. As might be expected, way better in the mouth too. Showing just a slight edge now, with full-on mid-palate flesh and cherry jam, spice and garrigue flavors. Acid/tannin synergy is still fairly strong on the finish. I don't think I'd touch this for at least 5-6 years, maybe 10-12.
$65
Hirtzberger, Riesling, Hochrain, Smaragd 2004 (Austria)
Light yellow.
Nose of wax, jellied white fruit, grapefruit marmalade. Hints of pepper and spice.
Intense - with high-pitched grapefruit zest flavor and a deep, low-toned earth (lentil?) character. RS adds volume and length with no overt sense of sweetness. Really chewy/bracing from the mid-palate through the finish. There's some residual CO2 here that also adds backbone.
$40
Nose of wax, jellied white fruit, grapefruit marmalade. Hints of pepper and spice.
Intense - with high-pitched grapefruit zest flavor and a deep, low-toned earth (lentil?) character. RS adds volume and length with no overt sense of sweetness. Really chewy/bracing from the mid-palate through the finish. There's some residual CO2 here that also adds backbone.
$40
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Marcassin "Three Sisters" Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2001
Light yellow. Slight haze.
Caramel/truffle/sulfide/sauteed onion/lemon/mint nose.
Round, extremely concentrated, almost thick. At the same time, this has real lift in the finish, thanks to strong acidity/sulfide synergy. Lemon flavor really kicks in, too, as does creme caramel. Dry dessert wine? Huge length.
$75
Caramel/truffle/sulfide/sauteed onion/lemon/mint nose.
Round, extremely concentrated, almost thick. At the same time, this has real lift in the finish, thanks to strong acidity/sulfide synergy. Lemon flavor really kicks in, too, as does creme caramel. Dry dessert wine? Huge length.
$75
Monday, August 10, 2009
Colosi, Nero d'Avola, Sicily 2008
Purple/red.
No vinturi - synthetic cork - baked earth/raspberry/brown spices/exotic fruit (mango?). Nice depth and lift.
Round and plush, with a well-hidden edge of acidity keeping everything in line. It must be the exotic yellow fruit character that reminds me of something from the south of France. Interesting, extremely tasty and cheap - just what the doctor ordered. Drink it over the next two to three years.
$16
No vinturi - synthetic cork - baked earth/raspberry/brown spices/exotic fruit (mango?). Nice depth and lift.
Round and plush, with a well-hidden edge of acidity keeping everything in line. It must be the exotic yellow fruit character that reminds me of something from the south of France. Interesting, extremely tasty and cheap - just what the doctor ordered. Drink it over the next two to three years.
$16
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape 2000
Evolved red.
Vinturi - cherry liqueur, toasted nut, garrigue, iron, earth nose. Well-integrated.
Round with some textural sweetness. Cherry, garrigue/earth flavors given an edge by relatively strong acidity. A bit pent up at the moment, but has obvious depth/concentration. More expressive with a day or two of air, I'd guess. Or some lamb stew.
$50
Vinturi - cherry liqueur, toasted nut, garrigue, iron, earth nose. Well-integrated.
Round with some textural sweetness. Cherry, garrigue/earth flavors given an edge by relatively strong acidity. A bit pent up at the moment, but has obvious depth/concentration. More expressive with a day or two of air, I'd guess. Or some lamb stew.
$50
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Hartford, Fanuucchi-Wood Rd Vyd, Zinfandel, RRV 2004
Red/purple.
Vinturi - deep, bass, nose - brown sugar/coconut/grilled orange. An oozer, in spite of the citrus note.
Round, creamy and packed in the mouth. Citrus shows again in the mouth, and does add nice lift/freshness. Fairly strong acidity teams up with citrus chew in the finish. Slight heat, but it would be easy to miss. I'd drink this now.
$25 15.9% alcohol.
Vinturi - deep, bass, nose - brown sugar/coconut/grilled orange. An oozer, in spite of the citrus note.
Round, creamy and packed in the mouth. Citrus shows again in the mouth, and does add nice lift/freshness. Fairly strong acidity teams up with citrus chew in the finish. Slight heat, but it would be easy to miss. I'd drink this now.
$25 15.9% alcohol.
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Kongsgaard "VioRous" Napa Valley 2007
Pale yellow.
Discreet nose - almond paste, lychee candy, peach, caramel. Nothing flamboyant about this. Subtle, precise.
Deep, creamy - but immediately lifted by a vibrant acid/mineral edge. Really wonderful textural sweetness without any sense of weight. All the aromas echo in the mouth. Long, subtle, "mineral" and peach finish. Seductive stuff - RFG.
I'm guessing that this is dominated by Roussanne, which comes from Kongsgaard's own vineyard. At an HdR seminar several years ago, he indicated that he had difficulty getting Roussanne above 20 brix (roughly translates to 12% alcohol).
$75 Viognier/Roussanne blend. Alcohol listed at 14.1%.
Discreet nose - almond paste, lychee candy, peach, caramel. Nothing flamboyant about this. Subtle, precise.
Deep, creamy - but immediately lifted by a vibrant acid/mineral edge. Really wonderful textural sweetness without any sense of weight. All the aromas echo in the mouth. Long, subtle, "mineral" and peach finish. Seductive stuff - RFG.
I'm guessing that this is dominated by Roussanne, which comes from Kongsgaard's own vineyard. At an HdR seminar several years ago, he indicated that he had difficulty getting Roussanne above 20 brix (roughly translates to 12% alcohol).
$75 Viognier/Roussanne blend. Alcohol listed at 14.1%.
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Yangarra "Cadenzia" Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre, McLaren Vale 2006
Red.
Vinturi - hints of red fruit, incense, hazelnut liqueur on the muted nose.
Round, slightly (fruit and alcohol) sweet, and mouthfilling. Acidity again is the dominant structural component, with relatively fine tannin adding some chew. Very tasty, but muddled somewhat. It could be the difference in vintages, but the 2005 Grenache showed more of everything (if my memory is still good).
$25
Vinturi - hints of red fruit, incense, hazelnut liqueur on the muted nose.
Round, slightly (fruit and alcohol) sweet, and mouthfilling. Acidity again is the dominant structural component, with relatively fine tannin adding some chew. Very tasty, but muddled somewhat. It could be the difference in vintages, but the 2005 Grenache showed more of everything (if my memory is still good).
$25
Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 1998
Deep red.
Vinturi - very attractive, suave, nose - earth/spice/pepper/toasted nut/red and black fruit/menthol.
Round, seamless impression, with slightly baked flavors. An edge of acidity and moderate tannin ultimately provide tension/grip. A roasted herb note on the finish. Interesting middle-weight. I believe '98 was a hot/dry year in RdD.
$28
Vinturi - very attractive, suave, nose - earth/spice/pepper/toasted nut/red and black fruit/menthol.
Round, seamless impression, with slightly baked flavors. An edge of acidity and moderate tannin ultimately provide tension/grip. A roasted herb note on the finish. Interesting middle-weight. I believe '98 was a hot/dry year in RdD.
$28
Sunday, August 2, 2009
Seghesio, Arneis, Russian River Valley 2008
Brilliant straw.
Aromas of perfectly ripe pear/apple, almond. Vibrant.
Nice flesh, with strong acidity (and some residual CO2). Fresh fruit flavors mirror nose. Some RS no doubt enhancing mouthfeel. Hardly complex, but great on a hot day. Goes "minerally" on the finish, with chew coating the front teeth.
$? Saran lined screwcap. Esoteric northern Italian variety. Courtesy of Frank Bostock.
Aromas of perfectly ripe pear/apple, almond. Vibrant.
Nice flesh, with strong acidity (and some residual CO2). Fresh fruit flavors mirror nose. Some RS no doubt enhancing mouthfeel. Hardly complex, but great on a hot day. Goes "minerally" on the finish, with chew coating the front teeth.
$? Saran lined screwcap. Esoteric northern Italian variety. Courtesy of Frank Bostock.
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