Sunday, May 31, 2009

Norton, Malbec Reserva, Mendoza 2006

Purple/red.

Vinturi - deep clay/earth, spice, black raspberry jelly nose. Sumptuous.

Round, plush and sweet entry, with moderate tannin. Shows slight heat in the mid-palate, but easily forgiven. Runs the court.
Another stupid value.

$15

Las Rocas, Garnacha, Catalayud (Spain) 2006

Deep red/purple.

Vinturi - deep earth/meat/citrus nose. Smells even more serious than usual. Iron shows late.

Riper black fruit here along with typical grapefruit zest. Entry and mid-palate show some flesh. Intense, bracing, citrus chew on the ridiculously (for the $$) long finish. Iron shows again.

$12 Is there a better "real wine" value? I wish they'd screwcap this, or use twin top corks. Synthetic (supremekork) currently.

Friday, May 29, 2009

Zenato "Ripassa" Valpolicella Superiore 2005

Saturated red/purple.

Vinturi - deeply pitched aromas of iron/blood, earth, nut liqueur and black fruit. Could be mistaken for a southern Rhone.

Round and plush, huge breadth in the mouth, with iron echoing. Only in the finish, with its tightly knit acid/tannin synergy, does this no longer resemble (most) s. Rhones. This has serious density. I bought a case of the '97 years ago and it drank well for a decade.


$27

Cousino-Macul "Antiguas Reservas" Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley 2006

Red/purple.

Vinturi - clay/earth, blackcurrant, spearmint nose. Very attractive.

Round and mouth-filling with a very well-integrated acid edge that firms things up without interfering. Flavors mirroring nose with slightly powdery tannin showing on the finish. Extremely well-made and obviously made from excellent fruit. House wine?

$17

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Domaine des Remizieres "Cuvee Christophe" Crozes-Hermitage 2003

Saturated purple.

Vinturi - spicy menthol/licorice nose shows a saucy, savory meat quality.

Deep, spicy, saline, grainy entry. Extremely concentrated, but a bit flat in the mid-palate, showing tannin and little else from that point on. Nothing new. I really wonder about most (but not all) 2003 northern Rhone reds.

$32

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Concha y Toro, "Terrunyo" Carmenere, Block 27 Peumo Vyd 2004

Saturated purple.

Vinturi - packed, deep nose. Earth, deep black fruit, herbs, chocolate, smoked meat. Rolland-esque.

Round and loaded in the mouth. Menthol, black fruit flavors with great mid-palate depth. Tannin level is high, but it gives weight/roundness. Elevage added a great deal here. Light tannic dusting on the front teeth. This rocks. Ringer in a flight of $100 Napa Cabernets?

$35

Sunday, May 24, 2009

Matua Valley "Paretai" Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough NZ 2008

Platinum/water.

Discreet, pure, nose - kiwi, asparagus, lemon/lime.

Deep, ripe, fleshy entry (for NZ SB). But also restrained/minerally in the mouth. Very classy, refined action, with fruit, mineral and green notes all registering equally. This is some seriously GS. There's RS here, but folded in brilliantly. I could drink a bottle myself. Mineral/green herb chew hits the front teeth and won't quit.

$20

Saturday, May 23, 2009

Saxum "James Berry Vineyard" Paso Robles 2006

Purple.

Vinturi - high-quality oak toast, light sulfide smoke/nut and an undercurrent of very deep black raspberry coulis.

Round, deep, sweet and completely mouth-filling, but not heavy at all. Extremely deep, sweet black raspberry and earth flavors. Texture/structure tension is fascinating, as this is finely-etched despite its ripeness/size. Not my favorite style, but it's hard not to be impressed by the execution.

$70 (?can't remember) 45% Syrah, 38% Grenache, 17% Mourvedre 16.6% alcohol (almost no sign of it)

Ecluse "Rendition" Paso Robles 2006

Red/purple.

Vinturi - smoke/earth/nut/black fruit liqueur/coconut nose.

Round, sensual, mouth-filling. Packed and slightly grainy tannin (good thing), but no hard edges here. Even gives the front teeth a light dusting of "chew". Paso style, but this has the guts to keep it from being sweet and one-dimensional.

$40? Gift 59% Syrah, 22% Grenache, 19% Mourvedre

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Domaine Santa Duc "Hautes Garrigues" Gigondas 1999

Dull, deep red.

Vinturi - savory meat/nut/earth, black cherry coulis, oak spice nose. Sumptuous, deep.

Round, with some textural sweetness. Then some serious (stem?) tannin impact in the mid-palate. Licorice, garrigue flavors dominate. Far better aromatically than my last bottle, but still wildly bound up in the mouth. I believe this is 100% whole cluster/long maceration (30+ days). Will this ever unwind?

$45

Domaine la Bouissiere, Gigondas 1999

Deep red.

Vinturi - less complex than the Cayron, but deeper/more plush, with some oak influence showing on the nose. Grilled meat/vegetable stew.

Deep and intense in the mouth, again shows veg character that is not unattractive combined with red and black fruit. More structured than the Cayron. I shot a biscuit over a bottle of this a couple of years ago, but this isn't quite at that level.

$25

Domaine du Cayron, Gigondas 1999

Red, slight brick at rim.

Vinturi - iron, deep black cherry jam, grilled herbs, earth/nut liqueur, licorice nose. This was marked by Brett in its early years, but now has integrated it. Rocks.

Round and generous, with an edge of acidity that increasingly constricts the sides of the mouth. Very good mid-palate stuffing, with most of the aromatic components echoed. Still a bit chewy in the finish, but nothing decent food can't handle.
RFG. Iron filing chew persists.

$25

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Artadi "Pagos Viejos" Rioja 2004

Saturated purple.

Vinturi - hazelnut, earth, shoe polish, baked black fruit, licorice nose. Later - iron in the empty glass.

Round and mouth-filling initially, then significant acid-driven tannin constricts the side teeth. Runs on two tracks. shows a bit of citrus and red fruit in the mid-palate. Interestingly, this is more bound up than the Numanthia. But both are loaded and need many more years in bottle.

Day 4 - More contained than the Numanthia, no gimmicks. Still suave and integrated. Deep. Some caramelized fruit, easy access, with acid structure on the front teeth. Fairly stiff, actually.

$60

Numanthia, Toro (Spain) 2004

Purple.

Vinturi - suave, refined nose - toasted nut, grilled meat, inky black fruit/baked earth and licorice.

Covers the mouth horizontally, with acid/tannin synergy adding real restraint immediately. Nevertheless, black fruit and spice flavors manage to ride through it. Intensely flavored, center-packed. Extremely well-made, fine wine.

Day 4 - Showing its toasted oak/marshmallow/coconut side. Great depth of flavor, but one-dimensional.

-
$45

Saturday, May 9, 2009

J.L. Chave "Offerus" St Joseph 2003

Deep red.

Vinturi - licorice, earth, menthol, game, iron, black fruit, shoe polish and grilled herbs on the nose. Even-keeled, subtle, deep.

Round and mouth-filling. Has an edge of green herb acidity that increasingly constricts the finish. Front teeth coated in N. Rhone veg/acid/tannin/mineral chew. But not brutal. Authentic N. Rhone Syrah, and cheap, really.

$28

Reustle "Prayer Rock" Gruner Veltliner, Umpqua Valley (OR) 2007

Platinum.

Ripe, easy nose - pear, spiced apple - with a lentil undertone.

Fairly (rs) sweet entry. Flavors are centered around perfectly ripe pear and apple, with some welcome spiciness and mineral/acid synergy cutting through. This is reasonably well-balanced, but a bit too sweet for me. But it would be really easy to get lucky with this wine in hand. Alcohol (14.9%) is completely hidden.

$22

Thursday, May 7, 2009

Domaine Bois de Boursan "Felix" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1999

Deep red.

Vinturi- grilled herbs, hazelnut liqueur, wilted herbs, iron, cherry liqueur, grilled meat nose. Smells like a north/south hybrid. Interesting, killer.

Round and far more giving than the Lopy. Pepper as a flavor addition to the nose. Acid-driven structure is significant, but in the background. This would be great with real food. My first bottle, on release (2001?), was a Brett-bomb. But this has moved beyond that nicely. No doubt some of the "savory" character is Brett/bottle age-derived.

Day 5 - dried herbs/flowers, cherry jam, charcoal nose. Easily confused with Barolo. Killer. Expansive, deep and long.


$40 on release

Sang des Cailloux "Lopy" Vacqueyras 1999

Deep red.

Vinturi - iron/earth, grilled herbs, toasted nut nose. Deep.

Intense middle-weight. Linear/nonfat. Flavors following nose. No fruit showing, although I remember a huge core of intense black fruit several years ago. Serve this as a sipping wine to a guest you never want to see again. Needs fat and protein.

$25 on release

Monday, May 4, 2009

Laurel Glen, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Mountain 1997

Deep red.

Vinturi - mellow, toasted nut, macaroon, licorice, blackcurrant, shoe polish nose.

Round, with great mid-palate flesh and black fruit/spice flavor. Which is not to say that this doesn't have serious tannic backbone. Mint character kicks in on the finish. Many years to go.

Day 3 - Same mellow nose, but now integrated and totally satisfying/killer. Ditto in the mouth - deep and rich with acid/tannin synergy definitely taking a back seat. Not "huge", but built beautifully.

$50.

Friday, May 1, 2009

Vieux Donjon, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006

Red/purple.

Vinturi - earth, hazelnut liqueur, pepper. Deep, fruit submerged. Again, an iron note as it airs. A floral element also.

Intense and vibrant in the mouth, with a (believe it or not) citrus zest pungency/chew that hits the front teeth. I (almost) never get citrus in French Grenache. Deeper and more refined than Las Rocas, but I'll be damned if there isn't a family resemblance.

$50

Las Rocas, Garnacha, Catalayud (Spain) 2005

Deep red.

Low-toned nose - peanut sauce/garrigue/raspberry coulis/earth. Iron too, with air.

Brighter in the mouth, with tell-tale grapefruit zest chew/flavor dominating. Undertones of earth, iron and cherry jam.
Hard to beat at the price. Hopefully Gallo will go back to natural cork, or, better, screwcaps. This is a synthetic version. Very oxidative, thus no Vinturi used.

$11